Facility for cutting fabric, facility for feeding fabric and method for cutting fabric

ABSTRACT

An apparatus for cutting fabric includes at least one fabric wind-off device ( 1, 1′ ) for one fabric bolt ( 7 ), a conveyor belt ( 5 ) for conveying the unwound fabric, and a cutting device ( 3 ) which cuts a piece of fabric to a given shape from the length of fabric deposited on the conveyor belt ( 5 ). Said conveyor belt ( 5 ) extends without interruption from at least that point where the fabric is deposited by the wind-off device ( 1, 1′ ) to the working area of the said cutting device ( 3 ). The wind-off device ( 1, 1′ ) places the length of fabric directly onto the conveyor belt ( 5 ) or onto one of more lengths of fabric already deposited on the said conveyor belt. An apparatus control automatically feeds the unwound fabric to the cutting device and directs the cutting of the unwound fabric by the cutting device.

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The invention concerns a custom cutting apparatus for cutting fabric, adevice for feeding said fabric to cutting apparatus and a process forthe use of such equipment.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

A device for the feed of fabric to a textile machine has been disclosedby EP-A-0 589 089. The device is designed as a trough with a drivensurface, so that fabric rolls lying in the trough are set into rotationby friction and thereby unwind themselves. The so unwound fabric lengthis laid upon a conveyor belt assigned to said unwinder and by means ofthis conveyor belt is transferred to another additional and separateconveyor belt which is dedicated to feeding a cutting machine. Theseoperations, taken all together, provide the assembly with the name of afeeding device.

Conventional equipment of this kind has not proven itself as optimal,since it is difficult for such equipment to bring out a fold-free,straight line issue of the fabric. Furthermore, the exactness with whichthe custom cutting of said fabric is carried out is limited.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The purpose of the present invention is to make available a customcutting apparatus, which overcomes the above named deficiencies of theexisting state of the technology. This purpose includes the formulationof a process for said custom cutting, corresponding to the operation ofsaid feeder and cutting apparatus. The invention further provides animproved fabric feeding device.

This purpose will be achieved by a custom cutting apparatus whichexhibits the following:

at least one fabric unwinding device for a fabric roll,

a conveyor belt for the transport of the unwound fabric,

a custom cutting apparatus which cuts the fabric while said fabric isstill on the transport band, whereby the transport band extends at leastfrom the position where the fabric is deposited by the unwinder deviceup to the operational area of the custom cutter and

the fabric band lies directly on the conveyor belt or on one or morethereupon lying fabric bands.

Because of the use of the conveyor belt, with a through movement, thecontrol of the fabric custom cutting apparatus has available veryprecise data in regard to the position of the fabric in the operationalzone of the custom cutter. In addition, this movement eases the issuingof fold-free and straight line character of the fabric. Consequently,the pattern can be more exactly positioned in relation to the material,so that the custom cutting can be done with greater precision.

In the state of the technology up to now, the cutting off of the fabricat the end of a pattern or at the fabric roll end, is, in general, doneby the said cutting apparatus. In yet another embodiment of the presentinvention, the fabric unwinder device is equipped with a fabric cut-offdevice. In the case of several unwinding devices, these are eachadvantageously and respectively equipped with a fabric cut-off device.These measures, on the basis of the increased precision of the conveyingbelt position, enable the cut-off operations at the pattern, or end of afabric roll, to be carried out at the respective unwinding device. Thisincreases the operational speed, since it makes possible the relievingof the custom-cutting apparatus from the cutoff operation, and providesa faster change of the fabric roll. The custom cutting apparatus permitsa simple removal of fabric ends, although not cut off at the customcutter, but at the unwinding device.

Fundamentally, these remainder pieces can also run on with the conveyorbelt. The cutoff fabric remainders have, usually, a length of 0.2 m to 1m and can be rolled up and discarded by an operating person or by thecustom cutter apparatus (see below).

In yet another embodiment of the present invention, the fabric unwinddevice is equipped with fabric stretch loading apparatus or fabrictension loading apparatus, which holds the fabric firmly upon cutoffwith the fabric cutoff device.

In order to attain an especially fast exchange of the fabric to be cut,the fabric unwinding device, of which there may be several, is sodesigned, that it can, in a self-acting manner, rewind the remainders onthe fabric rolls (or on a winding shell). This enables an especiallyfast change-over to a new fabric roll. The cutoff of the fabric can, asalready noted, be exercised for two different reasons. The firstpossible reason is the reaching of the end of a pattern cut, when thesubsequent pattern must cut from a different material, i.e. a differentcolor or a different pattern. The necessary cutoff signal emanates fromthe control of the fabric feed device, which possesses data on thepattern which is to be used. The second reason lies in the reaching ofthe end of the material which was originally in the fabric roll.

In yet another embodiment of the present invention, the materialunwinding device, of which there may be more than one, is equipped witha material end sensor or fabric end sensor, which detects the approachor the reaching of the fabric end, advantageously upon the sensing ofthe complete or nearly complete unwinding of the fabric roll.Differently, in yet another embodiment of the present invention, thefabric end sensor is designed from a light-relay, through the beam ofwhich the fabric band is run, proximal to the unwinder. The control ofthe cutting is stopped and simultaneously, the unwinding is interruptedas soon as the end of the fabric strip is recognized. With this actioncutoff is instituted for the fabric. Because of the traveling conveyorbelt, the control senses, with great exactness, the arrival of thefabric end at the custom cutter apparatus and can, therefore,synchronize the cutting operation accordingly.

The advantages of the invention can be especially effectively put touse, when—in yet another embodiment of the present invention—two or moreunwinding devices are provided, preferably one unwinding devicefollowing the other winding device. This arrangement, achieves, forinstance, a substantial reduction of the idle time of the custom cuttingapparatus and besides, enables a significant increase of the effectivespeed of operation is possible. As has been explained above, there is anobvious requirement that a fabric roll must be changed frequently,because of necessary switches in color or pattern specifications.

Yet another embodiment of the present invention provides for suchchanges in the fabric roll, practically without interruption in theoperation, since after the cutoff of a fabric with the existing cutoffdevice for the respective fabric roll, the control of the equipmentimmediately acts so that the remnant fabric roll is rewound and theunwinding of fabric from other textile rolls is carried out subsequentlyso that the layout of the material on the transport belt and theconveyance of the “new” fabric to the custom cutting device isimmediately effected.

Because of the continuous conveyor belt, the arrival of the fabric bandend at the custom cutter can be precisely calculated. Yet anotherembodiment of the present invention permits an interruption of thecontrol of the custom cutter process at the latest, when the calculatedarrival of the said fabric band end at the custom cutter takes place andsets the control back in operation by a “Start-again” signal upon thearrival of a subsequent fabric band. The computing of the arrival timeis carried out advantageously with reference to the speed of theconveyor belt and the difference in distance between the fabric cutoffdevice or the fabric-end sensor and the custom cutter. The fabric endsensor can, because of the use of the continuous conveyor belt bedisposed proximally to the unwinding device (and not the custom cutter,although this would also be possible and would lead to a self actuatingrecognition of a fabric end.) The control can also automatically computethe arrival time of the lead edge of another fabric band at the customcutter, after the said restart of the unwinder. The valid basis for thisis again the continuity of the conveyor belt.

Alternatively, the determination of the arrival of a fabric band in thenear proximity to the operation area can be done without being on thebasis of a computation, but by direct detection of the leading edge ofsaid fabric band. This can be accomplished, for instance, by opticalmeans. For this purpose, the conveyor belt can be made in a specificcolor, which contrasts itself from the generally used fabric colors. Anoptical sensor is sensitive to the light reflected from the conveyorbelt (which light necessarily has the color of the conveyor belt). Uponthe arrival of the leading edge of the fabric, (which has a differentcolor) the intensity of the detected reflected light is diminished,whereupon the arrival signal has been received. Another possibility ofthe recognition of the fabric rests upon an optical difference indistance measurement. The vertical spatial interval between aninstrument above the conveyor belt and its visible surface diminishesitself, namely when fabric lies on the conveyor belt. This diminishingof the vertical interval permits the detection of the presence offabric. The measurement rests, for instance, on the fact that light isfocused on the conveyor belt and the reflected light from that surfaceis detected. The presence of the fabric implies, that the focus pointlies under the reflecting surface (here the fabric), which conditionmanifests itself in an obvious lessening of the detected reflected lightintensity. Both measuring methods can be used alternatively or incombination.

In yet another embodiment of the present invention, on the basis of thisdetection, a self actuated zero point reset for the pattern cutter inthe moving direction of the fabric band occurs for the next-in-sequence,custom cutting procedure. This zero point lies in the longitudinaldirection at a pre-specified distance (for instance, 2 cm) from thefabric band leading edge, and is offset toward the center of the fabricband. Along with the zero-point setting, a restart signal for thecutting procedure could also advantageously be made.

A selvedge for fabric rolls of differing width, found at a right angle,or hereinafter “cross”, to the direction of conveyor travel must beconsidered when setting the zero point. The selvedge is that fabric edgearea which differs from the remainder of the material in color and/orpattern. More exactly said, the cross zero point must be set at aspecified distance from the inner edge of the selvedge toward the centerof the fabric band, i.e. remote from the edges. The detection of theinner edge of the selvedge can fundamentally be done automatically byoptical means. Preferred is, however, a half-automatic setting of thecross zero point in yet another embodiment of the present invention.This is based on an automatic fabric roll follower guide, whichcompensates for unequal windings of the fabric across the band. At thestart of an unwinding for a new roll, an operator defines the positionof the cross-zero point relative to the edge of the fabric. If the crosszero point should lie, for example, 1 cm within the inner edge of theselvedge, then the operator, in case of a 2 cm selvedge, sets the crosszero point 3 cm within the actual fabric edge.

The roll follower guide transversely slides the fabric rollautomatically during the unwinding in such a manner, that the cross zeropoint comes to lie at an established cross position of the conveyor belt(the cross-zero point position). In yet another embodiment of thepresent invention, the determination of the fabric band edge position,which is necessary for the described action, is carried out by a fabricband edge sensor with an optical light relay system. Such a system wouldencompass one or more light sources which directly illuminate the fabricedge after the unrolling and one or more sensors for the spatialdetection of the light interrupted by the fabric and/or the lightfalling on the fabric band.

In the case of the fabric custom cutting, in accord with the invention,the control, because of the positioning of the conveyor belt, canprecisely predetermine whether a pattern to be cut exceeds the availablelength of the remaining fabric. In accord with yet another embodiment ofthe present invention, it is even possible, that the control selectsonly those patterns for a pattern, which, before running out of fabric,can be completely cut out. The control stores in memory those patterncutouts, which cannot be completely cutout and then permits, that thesecutouts are automatically called back into action after operation beginswith new (and sufficient) fabric. From the standpoint of controltechnology, it is possible as shown in yet another embodiment of thepresent invention, that in case a fabric roll reaches an end at apattern cutter, this will be cut as determined by the control. Suchpatterns as could not be cut from said roll completely, areautomatically recognized and after automatic recognition of the zeropoint in the direction of the conveyor belt travel, will be cut out ofthe next fabric rolls. These measures enable a substantial reduction ofthe spoilage.

The single cutouts must frequently be provided with additional seams andquilting. This can be the case, for example, in upholstery covering, inwhich the cover folds are made by the sewing of the single patternsbefore the complete sewing together of the covering is done. In thiscase, it is advantageous that the patterns are provided with markings,along which the seam or quilt lines can be set. In order not to have tomark each cutout, these markings were advantageously placed on the notyet cut fabric band. For the later processing of the cut-outs, ingeneral, markings must be made on the fabric. For instance, suchmarkings show where later quilting is to be made.

In yet another embodiment of the present invention, for this purpose amarking device has been provided. In the state of the technology, oneuses for this purpose a marking head (that is, a spray head) which isinstalled on the custom cutting apparatus and, indeed more exactly, onthe available, bidirectionally movable support which also carries thecutting head of the custom cutting apparatus. The work-up of the fabricis done in the manner of the state of the technology, in general so,that first, by an appropriate procedure of the supports, the necessarymarkings on the fabric are applied. When that is accomplished, onceagain, by corresponding movements of the support, the required fabriccutting can proceed.

Alternatively, in yet another embodiment of the present invention acontrollable marking apparatus, separately placed away from the customcutting apparatus and independent thereof, is provided. The cutting andthe marking are executed simultaneously. Advantageously, the markingapparatus is located between the unwinding device and the cuttingapparatus. By marking the fabric directly after the unwinding from thefabric rolls, the fabric bands come to the cutting apparatus in aprepared state. Since the cutting apparatus now serves only the onecutting function, the operational speed is increased by a factor of 2.

In a case of disturbance with the cutting apparatus or the markingapparatus, a custom cutting machine of the state of the technology must,in general, be brought to a stand still, until the difficulty iscorrected. In order to avoid production down-time of this kind, by meansof an improvement of the above described system, in yet anotherembodiment of the present invention, the marking apparatus is equippedwith a custom cutting means (for example) a cutting head, and/or thecustom cutting apparatus is provided with a means for marking (forinstance, a marking head). The control of the equipment is so designed,that at an emergency-run operation—at what would be a shut down forconventionally operating cutting or marking means—in accord with thepresent invention, custom cutting is possible with the cutting meansplaced on the marking equipment, or, in reverse, marking continues withthe marking means located on the cutting apparatus. Further, rollexchange can be carried out simultaneously. In the case of a completebreakdown of either of the two apparatuses, a more extensiveemergency-run operation is foreseen, in which both functions are takenover by the non-disabled apparatus (i.e. custom cutting and marking). Inthe first mentioned case there is effected a continuation of operationwith simultaneous cutting and marking without loss of time. In thesecond case, what occurs is a non-simultaneous cutting and marking,which allows continued operation at perhaps half the speed of the normaloperating rate.

The unwinding of the fabric and its conveyance on the conveyor belt canbe done continuously or discontinuously. In the first case, the fabricis drawn from the roll without interruption or delay and during itsmovement, is cut and, if necessary, marked. Control-wise, however, aforward impulse movement is simpler, in which the unwinding device andthe conveyor belt are at times held back for a cutting of a “cuttingwindow” and, if necessary, for the marking of a “marking window”.

In yet another embodiment of the present invention, the fabric customcutting apparatus exhibits a marking head, which is movable in thetransport direction of the conveyor belt or at right angles thereto.This marking head can be outfitted with a spray device, which appliesline-like markings on the fabric band. In this way, dry powder can beejected thereon, which, after the further work-up of the material can bebrushed away. The spray, or ejected substance can also be of a retentivenature, such as a dye, which, without the aid of technical means(fluorescent lamps), is invisible. In the case of another preferredembodiment, the marking apparatus is formed from a marking head, which,in similar manner to a plotter, applies the markings by means of amovable vertical rod moving along the lines to be marked. The rods canbe chalk pieces or other customary marking means. In this way, a singlerod can be employed. Even a supply magazine can be provided, out ofwhich the marking head can select a rod. The latter form has theadvantage, that, first, the rods are exchangeable upon wear without longresetting periods, and second, several rods for varied colored markingsare immediately accessible to the marking head. The movement of themarking head is, advantageously, regulated by a control unit whichpossesses a microprocessor. This control can be, for instance, from atool machine issue such as the well known CNC or DNC Control units.

The input quantity of the control includes the placement of the markingsto be made on the individual patterns as well as the arrangement of thepattern. In order to be able to load in these data, the said controlpossesses an interface, to which is connected either:

a central control unit for the regulation of the fabric guidance formedfrom the unwinding device and the conveyor belt and the custom cuttingapparatus, or

by means of which central control the data from another computer couldbe taken over, for instance, the control of the cutter apparatus.

Compatible data formats are preferred, such as in textile work, thecustomary formats, *.DXF AAMA or formats such as ISO 6983, wherein thedata, in general, are produced with the aid of CAD-systems. A matchingto each optional data format is possible. The control of the equipmentcan be the proprietary format of another machine manufacturer, such as,the proprietary format of the French firm “Lectra Systems”, which can beinstalled and worked with. The program for the control of the markinghead can either be input through the interface for the location data ofthe markings, or be input to a stable memory, for instance an EPROM oreven to an electrical erasable and rewriteable EEPROM.

In yet another embodiment of the present invention, the custom cuttingapparatus exhibits a cutting head, which is movable in the crossdirection and, if required, in the direction of conveyor belt travel andthe position of which as well as the cutting activity is controllablefrom the control of the general equipment. The cutting head control isadvantageously designed in the same way as the above described markinghead control. The two controls can use one and the same or separatemicroprocessors. Further the two head control components can be thecontrol of the entire fabric cutting equipment, which possesses a singlecommon microprocessor.

The cutting head can possess a cutting knife, which, for instance, isdesigned as an electronically driven circular knife. In otherembodiments, the cutting knife is designed as a pinion cutter, whichadvantageously is activated supersonically, whereby the assurance isgiven that even in the case of fast forward movement, the cutting forceis vertical to the fabric band. The cutting head can also be built as adie, which stamps the patterns out of the fabric band.

In a preferred embodiment, the cutting head is a laser beam cuttinghead. This type of cutting head possesses a laser beam source and acorresponding focusing optical system, which focuses the laser beam onthe fabric band. To avoid undesirable oxidation, an additionalprotective gas jet can be provided, which pushes away from the cuttingposition the oxygen containing air by means of inert gases, i.e.nitrogen or other inactive gases. Especially, where artificial fibercontaining textiles are concerned, a fume removal system can beprovided, which, during the cutting, sucks away the vaporized substancesin order to uphold the required working place environmental regulations(MAK-values).

Finally, the cutting head can also fulfill its function as a waterstream, which exhibits a water jet, from which a high pressure waterstream issues for cutting the fabric. In this case, the custom cuttingapparatus possesses on the side remote from the cutting head, anappropriate collection system for the cutting water stream. Anadvantageous arrangement is one of the above mentioned mechanicalcutting or stamping methods combined with a laser beam cutting device orwith a high pressure water jet custom cutting apparatus.

In order to cut out several similar patterns in a single work operation,it is known in the state of the technology to lay several layers offabric bands, one on top of the other. These laminated arrangements offabric are brought to the cutting apparatus, and with one penetratingcut, are all custom cut together (see EP-A-0 589 091 referred topreviously). With the conventional marking apparatuses (see DE-U-295 03230) only the top layer of this multiple layered fabric structure can beso marked.

In yet another embodiment of the present invention, the fabric cuttingapparatus is so designed, that on the conveyor belt, two or more layersof fabric can be laid out on top of one another. For this purpose, acorresponding number of fabric unwinding devices are used. Because ofthe continuously moving conveyor belt, the fabric bands can be veryprecisely positioned over one another.

In yet another embodiment of the present invention, each of theunwinding devices is provided with a marking device.

The marking apparatuses are so arranged, that they are able,respectively, before the deposition of a further fabric band layer, toapply a marking on the existing band. The marking apparatuses arecontrollable in respect to time and position in such a way, that themarkings of the finally stacked fabric layers are positionedcongruently, one on the other. This pre-customized, multiple layeredfabric band is then conducted to the cutting apparatus. On the nowcutout patterns, the marking guides are still in alignment. The lastmarking apparatus (if there are more than one) is advantageously locatedbetween the last unwinding device and the custom cutting apparatus. Itmarks respectively the unwound fabric band layer from the assignedunwinding device before the next layer can be placed by the adjacentlylocated unwinding device.

After the stacking and so that the markings of the individual layers arecongruently aligned, the marking apparatuses and the withdrawal speed ofthe individual unwinders are time synchronized and controlled.Preferably, all marking apparatuses operate simultaneously, wherein eachhandles one window in the timely sequence of the fabric output. Themarking windows can belong to one or to various cutout patterns. Afterthe work-up of respectively one marking window, the fabric band is movedforward, so that the respective marking window next in line ispresented. In regard to control, the marking windows are sosynchronized, that in the finished, custom cut packet the marking liecongruently, one under the other. In the case of a discontinuousoperation, the second marking apparatus carries onto the second layer offabric exactly the same marking pattern, which, in a previous step, thefirst marking apparatus applied on the first fabric layer. The markingsof the first and second material layers, lie congruent, one on top ofthe other. Alternatively, a continuous forward movement is possible. Thefabric bands were, during the marking, pulled under the markingapparatuses.

Advantageously, the fabric custom cutting equipment is equipped with atleast one coating material dispensing device placed after the unwindingdevice, which lays down a top layer on the fabric band. In this way, onthe uppermost fabric band layer, a covering material is laid for theformation of a vacuum sealing means.

A fabric band with such a covering coating as described, upon latercutting, can, because of low pressure at the conveyor belt, be sopressed against the said conveyor belt, that the risk of a relativeslipping of the single fabric band layers during the cutting islessened. An appropriate covering material can be a plastic foil, apaper layer, or another foil-like material. The permeability to air ofthe covering material is advantageously less than that of the fabricband layers, so that a sufficient anchorage due to the vacuum formationis made. In the case of other embodiments, the suction is effectedwithout a cover on the top fabric layer. A sufficient suction can beachieved by the relatively small air permeability of the fabric bandlayers to be cut.

In the case of more simple and more economical embodiments, the conveyorbelt is provided with a rough and/or adhesive coating, which, withoutthe vacuum effect is enabled to hold the fabric band(s) securely. Thisis accomplished advantageously by a felt coating. This obviates first,the relatively expensive suction arrangement and second, makes thecoating of the fabric band obsolete.

In order to cut with greater precision and to hold the scrap rate to aminimum, there are various measures for freedom from folding in thedepositing of the fabric on the conveyor belt or on other fabric layers.Thus, in yet another embodiment of the present invention, theprogressive movement of the unwinding device or the fabric tensionloading apparatus (which can be multiple) is somewhat slower than theforward motion of the conveyor belt. This causes the fabric to be laidon the conveyor belt with a certain degree of tension. In yet anotherembodiment of the present invention the fabric band is subjected topressure, namely by a pressure roll which presses the band against theconveyor belt.

In the state of the technology, where custom cutting was involved,frequently in the edge areas of the pattern, so-called “clipping” wasobserved. What was involved here were three cornered cutouts, whichindicated to the sewing person during the subsequent sewing of thefabric pattern, where the seams which were to be installed began orended. In order to shorten the fabric work-up time even more, in yetanother embodiment of the present invention the recognizablecharacteristic mark for seam ends or seam beginnings, instead of beingmarked with cutout “clips”, such guiding markings are applied in theform of (colored) marking on the material itself. This is doneadvantageously by the above mentioned marking apparatus, which operatessimultaneously with the custom cutting apparatus. Since the customcutting apparatus is more heavily loaded than the marking apparatus, thesubstitution of the cutout clippings (optically recognizable) bymarkings would bring with it a more well balanced loading and therewithas a whole, an increase of profitable working time.

The marking system(s) can, advantageously, also be employed for othermarkings on the fabric pieces. Such markings, for instance, can besymbols assigning different fabric pieces to a specific, for instance,furniture piece. This is particularly valuable, when the fabric piecesbelonging to a specific furniture piece come from different patterns.This would be the case if the furniture piece was to have a multicoloredcovering. Further such marking would be helpful if the fabric, becauseof roll end changes, was cut from an old and a new fabric roll. In yetanother embodiment of the present invention, this assignmentinformation, or other information can be carried out with the markingapparatus on an separate piece for sew-on addition. In this case afabric piece is involved which is to be sewed on at a later time. Theinformation can be presented in coded or uncoded form.

The fabric cutting equipment—alternatively or additionally—can possess alabel application device, which provides the individual cutouts of apattern or different patterns with labels, so that the cutouts, byfurther working, can be properly assembled together. The labelapplication device can, for this service, be located either before orafter the cutting apparatus and can be controlled by the complete systemcontroller.

The unwinding device is advantageously designed as a rodless device,wherein the fabric rolls are found upon an underlying support, and forthe unwinding of the fabric are set into rotation by a tangential motionimparted against their outer surface.

The fabric custom cutting apparatus can also possess a takeaway belt,which transports the already cut and possibly marked cutouts to variousassigned receiving baskets. The take-away belts can also be located asan extension of the main conveyor belt.

Advantageously, the said fabric custom cutting apparatus also has amonitor, upon which the cutting design and/or the markings to be madeare visible. As mentioned previously, in accord with the state of thetechnology, one employs separate equipment for the fabric feed and thecustom cutting, which are assembled at the operating site. The abovedescribed arrangement of the fabric cutting apparatuses are alsoadvantageous for such separate equipment, even if fully optimal resultsare not achieved, which optimal results would be expected of a fabriccutting apparatus designed as a unified entity. Existing in the textileworking countries are a large number of such installations assembledfrom various parts and these are capable of useful production for manyyears to come. In order to allow these existing installations to enjoythe profitability of the invented designs, it is proposed that thecustom cutting apparatus be retained, but to replace the feedingapparatus with a fabric forwarding feed system in accord with one ormore of the above assemblies. In yet another embodiment of the presentinvention, such a fabric feeding device and system is proposed with atleast one fabric unwinding device for a fabric roll, one belt conveyorfor the transport of the unwound fabric, wherein the unwinding devicelays the fabric band directly on the conveyor belt or upon one or morefabric bands already thereon, whereby the fabric feed equipmentpossesses one or more of the features of the fabric feed equipment foundin the embodiments of the present invention previously described.Insofar as a fabric custom cutting apparatus is mentioned, the separatecustom cutter component is not excluded from within the meaning of theterm. In some cases, the separate custom cutter component can becontrollably coupled with the fabric feed equipment of the invention, sothat, for instance, the object of defining and operating on the cut outpatterns prior to the end of the fabric roll is advantageous to thehighest degree with the feed apparatus of the invention along with anexisting, conventional custom cutting apparatus. Particularlyadvantageous is yet another embodiment of the present invention in whicha multi-layered marking is made possible. From this, the existingcutting system can profit in the greatest measure if it is operatedtogether with a feed system as outlined above.

Finally, the invention presents a procedure for custom cutting offabric, including the steps of laying out at least one layer of a fabricon a conveyor belt by the unwinding of a roll of fabric from anunwinding device and directing deposition on the continuing ordiscontinuing movable conveyor belt or on one or more layers of fabricalready deposited thereon, transporting the laid out fabric on theconveyor belt to a custom cutting apparatus and automatic cutting out ofa desired pattern form with the custom cutting apparatus. In accord withone or more of the above formulations, the procedure can be developedand extended whereby the conveyor belt is continuous at least from thefabric deposition point to the operating area of the custom cuttingapparatus. In regard to the details reference is made to explanationsfor fabric cutting and fabric transport, which give attention to theprocess and its embodiments.

Other objects and features of the invention will become apparent as thedescription proceeds, especially when taken in conjunction with theaccompanying drawings illustrating the invention, of which there areeight sheets of four embodiments.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

FIG. 1 is a side view of a fabric custom cutting apparatus with twounwinding devices, however, without a marking apparatus,

FIG. 2 is a plan view of the cutting apparatus of FIG. 1,

FIG. 3 is a side view of a fabric custom cutting apparatus, similar toFIG. 1, however with the additional equipment of two marking apparatusesand a removal belt,

FIG. 4 is a plan view of the fabric cutting apparatus shown in FIG. 3,

FIG. 5 is a schematic presentation of a fabric band with pattern cutoutsand blanks to be cut,

FIG. 6 is a schematic cutout, the patterns for which were divided ontotwo separate fabric bands,

FIG. 7 is a side view of a fabric custom cutter apparatus which issimilar to FIG. 1, which is made secure against down time due to loss ofthe cutting facility and the marking apparatus, and

FIG. 8 is a side view of a fabric unwinding device, which is similar tothat of FIG. 3, however, not equipped with a custom cutting apparatus.

In the drawings, the same reference number is given to components withidentical functions or definitions.

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

The fabric custom cutting apparatus, as shown in FIGS. 1, 2, exhibit twounwinding devices 1, 1′. Respectively, a fabric roll 7 lies in a V-notchshaped, belt arrangement 8 of the unwinding device, which latter hasthree rolls 9. The belts are driven preferably by means of the centerroll 9. The traveling force of the said belt arrangement 8 iscommunicated by friction to the fabric rolls 7, which are therebyrotated and unwind themselves.

The fabric custom cutting apparatus is equipped with a conveyor belt 5,which extends itself from the position where the fabric from the firstunwinding device 1 is laid down to the operational area of the customcutter 3. As to the term “first unwinding device”, that unwinding deviceis to be understood which is most remote from the said custom cuttingapparatus 3. The fabric band is laid down from the unwinding devices 1,1′ directly upon the conveyor belt 5. The direction of travel of theprogressing conveyor belt is characterized in the drawing(s) by anarrow.

In accord with the presentation in FIG. 1, the second unwinding device1′ is active. The first unwinding device is idle. The custom cuttingapparatus 3, accordingly, cuts fabric which is respectivelydiscontinuous by the length of a cutting window as drawn from the fabricroll 7 of the second unwinding device 1′.

The unwinding devices 1, 1′ are respectively equipped with a fabric-endsensor 30. This is comprised, for example, of a light emitter/receiverunit and a reflector. This light relay unit can be so arranged, that thelight beam runs over the two outer rolls 9 of the belt arrangement 8, sothat the fabric rolls interrupt the light path of the light relay. Whenthe diameter of the fabric roll, on the other hand, reduces itself belowa given threshold, the light beam passes freely to the receiver, thusmaking a fabric end signal to a control instrument 6 a This signalinitiates a cutoff of the fabric band already on the conveyor from theremainder wound on the fabric roll 7. At this point, the fabric band isretained by a tensioner apparatus 10 and is cut off by a subsequentlyplaced fabric cutoff apparatus 12. Both the tensioner 10 and the cutoffapparatus 12 are installed on the unwinding device 1, 1′ in an area inwhich the already unwound fabric has not yet reached the conveyor belt5. After the cutoff, the fabric remainder on the second fabric roll 1′(the active roll) is rewound thereon.

Although the end of the fabric band, now laid upon the conveyor belt 5,is to be cut by the custom cutting apparatus 3, the first unwindingdevice 1 is already unloading onto the same conveyor belt 5. With adoubled belt advancement, the fabric from the first unwinding device 1is already within the operational area of the custom cutting apparatus3, so that a fabric roll switch is achieved with only a small break inthe continuous operation. The operating person can now remove the fabricroll from the second unwinding device 1′ and replace it with a newfabric roll.

For the continuing of the cutting procedure with the new material, azero point positioning is required. In the progressive direction of theconveyor belt, this zero-point setting is fully automatic since atravel-direction, zero point sensor 11 detects the forward edge of thefabric in the operational area of the custom cutting apparatus. Thedetection is based on an optical recognition of the color of the fabricwhich differs from the color of the conveyor belt and/or by means of anoptical detection of a spatial difference between fabric bands. In thecross direction, the zero point setting occurs half-automatically. Andindeed, the unwinding devices 1, 1′ are slidable at right angles todirection of belt travel by means of a cross directed drive 31. Thiscross drive is equipped with a subsequent signal controller 33, which,acting upon a signal from the optical fabric band edge sensor, moves theunwinding roll laterally so that the unwound fabric band edge comes to aconstant cross position on the conveyor belt. This avoids that an unevenunwinding of the fabric leads to angled pushing of the laid down fabricband on the conveyor belt. The position of the unwound fabric locatedacross the belt, which was automatically set by the follow-up control,can be adjusted in individual cases by an operating person as fabricrolls are changed. This is necessary, since the breadth of the so calledfabric band edge 13, does not coincide from side to side. For thisadjustment there serves a determinable cross directional zone (14), i.e.selvedge, free of zero point.

The cross directional zero point adjustment also encompasses the factthat the operating person, after the insertion of a new roll of fabric,sets the zero point at a specified spatial offset (for instance 1 cm)inside of the inner selvedge limit. By this means, assurance is given,that the cross directional drive automatically controls the position ofthe unwinding devices 1, 1′ in such a manner, that the adjusted crosszero point is always laid at the same cross position of the conveyorbelt.

This cross zero point adjustment can be undertaken previous to theactual start of operations of a unwinding device and so would engenderno interruption in the continuity of work.

The custom cutting apparatus 3 encompasses a sliding support 16, movableparallel to the conveyor belt, possessing a cross-traverse 17 upon whicha cutting head 18 is movable. Where the cutting head 18 is concerned,this could be, among other choices, a laser-cutting head.

The control equipment has stored in memory, the patterns to be cut. On amonitor 6, (among other things) these patterns are presentable invirtual cutouts. Using these the stored patterns as a basis, the controlequipment controls:

the remnants from the unwinding devices 1, 1′,

the automatic relocation of the zero points in belt travel direction,

the motion of the cutting head 18 in belt travel and cross directions,

the cutting activity of said cutting head 18,

the cutoff of the fabric at approaching roll end, and

the exchange from one unwinding device to the other because of inputfrom the cutting specification for a change in from one fabric toanother or because of an approaching end of a fabric band.

More detail on this will be provided below in connection with FIGS. 5,6.

A fold-free lay-out of the fabric on the conveyor belt 5 is to beachieved, first, in that the tensioning device 10 for stretching thefabric permits only a somewhat lesser forward motion of the fabric incomparison to that of the conveyor belt 5. Thereby, the fabric is undera certain tension when laid down on the conveyor belt 5.

Second, proximal to each unwinding device, 1, 1′, a pressure rider roll19 is provided, which presses the fabric against the conveyor belt 5.

The said conveyor band 5 is provided with a felt like surface. Thefabric clings to the material of this surface so well, that it does notslide even during the cutting process.

The fabric custom cutting in accordance with FIGS. 3, 4 permit themarking and the cutting of multi-layer fabric bands. The above detailedexplanations for the FIGS. 1 and 2 are also valid for such multi-layerbands in the same custom cutting apparatuses. Additionally, on thecutting apparatus, after each unwinding device 1, 1′ is foundrespectively, a marking apparatus 2, 2′ which applies on the justunwound fabric band, line markings for quilting or sewing to be carriedout later. The marking are comprised, for instance of a selfvolatilizing substance, which can only be seen in ultraviolet orinfrared spectrums. The marking apparatuses 2, 2′, correspond inconstruction to the above described custom cutting apparatus 3, andindeed, they exhibit a support 16, slidingly movable parallel to theconveyor belt carrying a traverse bar 17 and a marking head 20 thereon.The latter is, for instance, a spray head which ejects the markingsubstance in the course of the spray head movement and thereby appliesline-like markings of optional line form in the fabric.

After the first layer of the fabric band is laid down by the firstunwinding device 1, has been marked by the first marking apparatus, andhas been transported further by the conveyor belt 5, then the secondunwinding device 1′ lays down a second layer of fabric. This will bemarked by the second marking apparatus 2′. The marking procedure is socontrolled, that at the end of the marking, the markings on successivelayers of fabric band are congruent. The conveyor belt transports theready-to-cut, multilayer fabric band to the custom cutter apparatus 3,where the collected layers are cut in a common operation.

A vacuum box 21 in the operational area of the custom cutting apparatus3, located underneath upper strand of the endless conveyor belt sucksair through the conveyor belt and the superimposed fabric bands. Thiscauses a sufficient compression of the fabric bands onto the conveyorband to exclude any slippage of same during the cutting operation.

On the monitor 6, in this embodiment, not only the virtual cutout linesare visible, but also the marking lines.

Behind the custom cutting apparatus 3—“downstream”, relative to the belttravel—is appended a removal belt 22, which is formed from an extendedportion of the conveyor belt 5. By means of said removal belt 22, eitherthe finished cut out fabric pieces can be sorted by the operationalpersons, or an automatic arrange and sort system can be added. Also, atthis point, error cuts can be sorted out.

FIG. 5 shows a fabric band ahead of the custom cutting. On thelongitudinal edge, is found the selvedge 14, which normally has a widthof 2 cm. The (virtual) zero point 23 finds itself in a cross direction,somewhat inside of the inner edge of said selvedge 14 (about 0.2 mm), aswell as in the direction of travel of inside of the forward fabric edge(for instance, about 1 cm). On the fabric are seen the cutting lines ofthe patterns 24 yet to be cut out. This presentation of the lines servesonly for information, because in reality, the lines are virtual, andexist only in the data memory of the cutter control. Along these virtualcutting lines, is moved the marking head 20 of the custom cuttingapparatus 3, so that said custom cutting apparatus 3 excise thepresented cutouts. Likewise, marking lines 25 are drawn in. These arefirst likewise in the memory of the control equipment, but after theapplication of the markings, however, they become visible on the fabricin the here presented form. In the area of the cutting lines, alsotriangular markings 26 are to be seen. These are likewise applied by themarking apparatus 2, 2′. The triangular marking serve for the laterwork-up of the fabric as recognition signals for seam ends or seambeginnings. Finally, the marking apparatus 2, 2′ sprays in the specifiedseam locations of the cutouts 24, data 27 such as commission or cutoutnumber, so that after the cutting, an assignment of the single cutoutsto their proper place is made easier.

When the length of a cutting pattern, as is presented, for example, inFIG. 5 exceeds the length of the working range of the custom cutter 3,then the virtual cutting pattern is apportioned into several virtualparts, which correspond to the workable lengths. The control of theequipment is so designed, that after a progressive movement of theconveyor belt to the extent of the length of a “cutting window”, toallow that the next window to be processed, the result is that thepresented cutting pattern shown in FIG. 5 is cut piece-wise.

FIG. 6 shows a pattern for cutting in an apportionment to demonstratethree cutting windows. In the presented example, the fabric band endcomes to lay in the middle of the center cutting window. The control ofthe equipment determines immediately, which of the virtual proposedcutouts can be made from this cutting window in their entirety, and forwhich this is not the case. The control then allows the cutting of thepartial cutout 24′ from the fabric band which is coming to its end, andallows, from the next new fabric band, the excising of the cutout 24″which is now an incomplete but complementary cutout to 24′. Previously,the control had automatically reset the zero point 23 on the new fabricband. This measure allows, that the scrap waste is reduced to theminimum and upon fabric band change work can continue, practicallywithout interruption.

The demonstrated fabric custom cutting equipment is modular in itsconstruction. Thereby, components other than those here presented inexample embodiments, may in a simple way, be used in combination withother functional units. Particularly advantageous is, for example, anembodiment for single layer fabric working, similar to FIG. 1, which,however, possesses behind the second unwinding device, 1′, a markingapparatus of the kind shown and described in FIG. 3. Such an embodimentis shown in FIG. 7. With this embodiment, single layer marking andcustom cutting can be carried out, whereby, because of the doubledunwinding devices available, and the simultaneous carrying out of themarking and cutting, very high speed operation can be achieved. Thefabric cutting apparatus of FIG. 7 corresponds to the remaining, notmentioned features in the FIGS. 1 to 4.

Other than shown in FIGS. 3, 4, by an increase in durability andresistance against downtime, the marking apparatus 2 (where more markingapparatuses are present, then as in FIGS. 3, 4—the last markingapparatus) is provided with a cutting head 18′. Correspondingly, thecustom cutting apparatus 3 is equipped with a marking head 20′.Respectively, a vacuum box is found in the working areas of the markingand cutting apparatuses.

In normal operation the additional heads 18′ and 20′ are not employed.In case of a breakdown of one of the normally used heads 18, 20, then,respectively, one of the additional heads 18′, 20′ is put to use. Now asto the roll exchange: The custom cutting apparatus 3 takes over themarking operation, the marking apparatus the cutting. In this emergencyswitching operation, the marking continues after the cutting, thealready cutout pieces of fabric are also marked. Because of the beforeand after simultaneous method of operation, the operational speed can bemaintained at its normal level. In the case of a total breakdown, afurther emergency run stands available for the custom cutting apparatus3 and the marking apparatus 2. The emergency operation is as follows:

The still operable apparatus 2 or 3, by the activation of the markinghead 20′ or the cutting head 18′, marking and cutting now are done oneafter the other. The equipment can then, in spite of total breakdown,still operate, whereby, because of the now no longer simultaneous methodof operation, the working speed is diminished.

FIG. 8 shows a fabric feed apparatus, which corresponds to thatpresented in FIG. 3 with the custom cutting apparatus. The singledifference therefrom is that this embodiment has no custom cuttingapparatus 3 (and also no subsequent removal area 22). Much more, theconveyor belt 5 ends in this case directly after the last markingapparatus 2′. This depicted arrangement in FIG. 8 is designed to becombined with a separate (partially shown in the FIG. 8) custom cuttingapparatus 3′, which has its own conveyor belt 5′. Composite embodimentsto the FIG. 1 through 7 are adaptable also for this fabric feedequipment. The shown embodiment permits, as does that of FIG. 3, acollection of multilayer, marked fabric windows, before the cutouts areexcised in common from the fabric band packet.

What is claimed is:
 1. A fabric custom cutting apparatus comprising: atleast two fabric unwinding devices, each fabric unwinding deviceoperable to unwind fabric from a fabric roll and rewind unwound fabricback onto the roll, each device including a fabric cutoff apparatus; aconveyor belt for transporting unwound fabric from the roll, each fabricunwinding device arranged to deposit unwound fabric directly on theconveyor belt at a point of deposition on the conveyor belt, said fabricunwinding devices arranged along the conveyor belt such that therespective points of deposition of the fabric unwinding devices arespaced from each other along the conveyor belt; and a custom cuttingapparatus for cutting out a pattern figure from unwound fabric laid onthe said conveyor belt; said conveyor belt extending continuously fromthe points-of deposition of unwound fabric from the unwinding devices tothe custom cutting apparatus; and control means connected to said fabricunwinding devices and responsive to a cutoff of a fabric band by thefabric cutoff apparatus of one of the at least two fabric unwindingdevices from fabric unwound from a first fabric roll by the one of saidfabric unwinding devices to rewind the first fabric roll by the one ofsaid fabric unwinding devices and unwind fabric from a second fabricroll by another of said at least two fabric unwinding devices; whereby afabric roll change is achieved without loss of, or only with minimalloss of, production time.
 2. The fabric custom cutting apparatus ofclaim 1 wherein said control means is operable to automatically rewindthe first fabric roll by the one of said fabric unwinding devices aftercutoff of the fabric band by the fabric cutoff apparatus of the one ofsaid fabric unwinding devices.
 3. The fabric custom cutting apparatus ofclaim 1 wherein said control means comprises means for establishing azero point setting in a travel direction along the conveyor belt for anensuing cutting operation by the custom cutting apparatus, said controlmeans operable to automatically detect the arrival of a leading end ofunwound fabric on the conveyor belt at a predetermined point proximal tothe custom cutting apparatus, and upon such detection establish the zeropoint setting in the travel direction of the unwound fabric.
 4. Thefabric custom cutting apparatus of claim 1 wherein the custom cuttingapparatus includes a cutting head and said control means comprises meansfor positioning and controlling the cutting activity of the cuttinghead.
 5. The fabric custom cutting apparatus of claim 1 furthercomprising at least one of a) and b): a) a suction apparatus arranged toapply suction to unwound fabric conveyed on the conveyor belt wherebythe unwound fabric on the conveyor belt is pressed against the conveyorbelt, and b) the conveyor belt having in contact with the unwound fabricconveyed on the conveyor belt at least one of: a rough surface, anadhesive covering and a felt surface.
 6. The fabric custom cuttingapparatus of claim 1 comprising one of a pressure device or a pressureroller located along said conveyor belt between said points ofdeposition and said custom cutting apparatus wherein unwound fabricconveyed on the conveyor belt is pressed against the conveyor belt bysaid pressure device or pressure roller whereby the pressed fabric laysout fold-free on the conveyor belt.
 7. The fabric custom cuttingapparatus of claim 1 comprising at least one marking apparatusconfigured to apply recognition symbols for seam ends or seam starts onunwound fabric being conveyed on said conveyor belt.
 8. The fabriccustom cutting apparatus of claim 1 further including means for applyingdata in coded or uncoded form on the unwound fabric.
 9. The fabriccustom cutting apparatus of claim 1 wherein each fabric unwinding deviceincludes a fabric tensioner apparatus for retaining fabric to be cut offby the fabric cutoff apparatus.
 10. The fabric custom cutting apparatusof claim 9 wherein each fabric unwinding device advances unwound fabricat the deposition point of each unwinding device at a first respectivespeed and said conveyor belt advances fabric on the belt at a secondspeed, the second speed being greater than each of the respective firstspeeds so that a substantially fold-free layout of the unwound fabric onthe conveyor belt is achieved.
 11. The fabric custom cutting apparatusof claim 1 wherein each fabric unwinding device is located a respectivedistance from the custom cutting apparatus and said conveyor belt has aconveying speed; and said control means is connected to said customcutting apparatus and as operable after the cutoff of the fabric band bythe fabric cutoff apparatus to calculate an arrival time of a trailingend of the fabric band at the custom cutting apparatus from datarepresenting the speed of the conveyor belt and the distances of thefabric unwinding devices from the custom cutting apparatus and tointerrupt fabric cutting by the custom cutting apparatus at thecalculated arrival time, of the trailing end of the fabric band at thecustom cutting apparatus.
 12. The fabric custom cutting apparatus ofclaim 11 wherein the control means is operable upon a resumption of theunwinding of fabric by one of the fabric unwinding devices to calculateautomatically from said data the time of arrival of a leading end of theunwound fabric from the fabric unwinding device at the custom cuttingapparatus and to resume an interrupted cutting of fabric by the customcutting apparatus at the calculated arrival time of the leading end ofthe unwound fabric at the custom cutting apparatus.
 13. The fabriccustom cutting apparatus of claim 1 wherein each fabric unwinding devicefurther comprises: a sensor configured to detect a position relative tosaid sensor of a transverse edge of unwound fabric from the fabric rollbeing unwound by the fabric unwinding device; a cross drive fortransversely sliding the fabric roll being unwound by the fabricunwinding device; and a follow-up device which automatically actuatessaid cross drive in response to the position of the fabric edge detectedby the sensor to maintain a constant position of the fabric edge so thatthe fabric edge is brought to lie in a predetermined transverse positionto compensate for fabric rolls having selvedges of differing width orirregular unwinding of fabric from the roll.
 14. The fabric customcutting apparatus of claim 13 wherein each sensor includes a light-relaycomprising one or more light sources which illuminate the fabric edge ofthe unwound fabric and one or more sensors for spatial detection of thelight either interrupted by such unwound fabric or falling on suchunwound fabric.
 15. The fabric custom cutting apparatus of claim 1wherein each fabric unwinding device comprises means for recognizingsubstantial complete unwinding of the fabric roll, said conveyor belthas a conveyor speed, and said control means is connected to said customcutting apparatus, said control means further comprising: storage meansfor storing a plurality of cutouts of a cutting pattern; said controlmeans being responsive to said recognition means for determining fromdata representing the speed of the conveyor belt and a recognition ofthe substantially complete unwinding of a fabric roll which cutouts ofthe cutting pattern are completely cut out by the custom cuttingapparatus before reaching an end of the fabric band from the fabric rolland which cutouts are to be cut by the custom cutting apparatus fromfabric unwound from another roll, storing the cutouts that are to be cutfrom the fabric unwound from the other roll and deferring the cutting ofsuch stored cutouts until the fabric unwound from the other roll isconveyed to the custom cutting apparatus.
 16. The fabric custom cuttingapparatus of claim 15 wherein said control means is. operative todetermine which cutouts of the cutout pattern are only partially cut outby the custom cutting apparatus before reaching the end of the fabricband from an unwound fabric roll, apportioning each of such cutouts intoa first portion to be cut from the fabric band at the custom cuttingapparatus and a second portion to be cut from fabric unwound fromanother fabric roll, storing such second portions to be cut from theother roll, automatically resetting a zero point in a direction of belttravel of the fabric unwound from the other roll, and directing saidcustom cutting apparatus to cut such second portions from the fabricunwound from the other roll.
 17. The fabric custom cutting apparatus ofclaim 1 wherein each fabric unwinding device includes a fabric endsensor for detecting substantial complete unwinding of the fabric rollby each of the fabric unwinding devices.
 18. The fabric custom cuttingapparatus of claim 17 wherein each fabric end sensor comprises alight-relay having a light path, each of the at least two fabricunwinding devices being configured to locate an unwound portion of thefabric roll being unwound by each of the fabric unwinding devices in thelight path of the fabric end sensor of each of the fabric unwindingdevices, whereby the light path is blocked by the unwound portion of thefabric roll when the fabric roll is not substantially completely unwoundand the light path is not blocked by the fabric roll when the fabricroll is substantially completely unwound.
 19. The fabric custom cuttingapparatus of claim 17, wherein said control means is operable after thedetection of the substantially complete unwinding of the fabric rolls bythe fabric end sensors of each of the fabric unwinding devices toinitiate the cutoff of the fabric band with the fabric cutoff apparatusof (such fabric unwinding devices.
 20. The fabric custom cuttingapparatus of claim 1 wherein said conveyor belt is beneath each of theat least two fabric unwinding devices.
 21. The fabric custom cuttingapparatus of claim 20 comprising a marking apparatus for applyingmarkings onto unwound fabric conveyed on said conveyor belt, saidmarking apparatus located along said conveyor belt between each of saidpoints of deposition and said custom cutting apparatus.
 22. The fabriccustom cutting apparatus of claim 21 wherein said conveyor belt definesa downstream direction from said points of deposition to said customcutting apparatus and an opposite upstream direction; said at least twofabric unwinding devices comprise a first fabric unwinding device and atleast one second fabric unwinding device, each of said at least onesecond fabric unwinding devices spaced along said conveyor belt arespective distance upstream from said first fabric unwinding device;said fabric custom cutting apparatus further comprises at least oneadditional marking apparatus; and each additional marking apparatus isassociated with a respective one of said at least one second fabricunwinding devices to mark fabric unwound from a fabric roll by saidrespective fabric unwinding device and is between said respective secondfabric unwinding device and a next adjacent downstream first or secondfabric unwinding device.
 23. The fabric custom cutting apparatus ofclaim 1 further comprising at least one marking apparatus for applyingmarkings for seams or quilting onto the unwound fabric carried on theconveyor belt.
 24. The fabric custom cutting apparatus of claim 23wherein each of the at least one marking apparatus includes a markinghead movable along two mutually perpendicular axes, a position of eachmarking head being controllable by said control means, said controlmeans capable of receiving data representing a desired movement of themarking head and moving the marking head in accordance thereto.
 25. Thefabric custom cutting apparatus of claim 23 wherein the said at leastone marking apparatus is located and controlled separately from thecustom cutting apparatus and the said at least one marking apparatus andthe said custom cutting apparatus are configured to operatesubstantially simultaneously.
 26. The fabric custom cutting apparatus ofclaim 25 further including a combined marking apparatus and customcutting apparatus unit, the combined unit including said custom cuttingapparatus or an additional custom cutting apparatus; and said controlmeans comprising means operable upon a failure of the marking apparatusor the custom cutting apparatus to actuate the marking apparatus orcustom cutting apparatus of the combined unit so that the combined unitperforms the function of the failed apparatus.
 27. A procedure for thecustom cutting of fabric comprising the steps of: (a) unwinding fabricfrom a first fabric roll at a first unwinding location; (b) conveyingthe fabric unwound from the first roll to a custom cutting apparatus;(c) cutting pattern figures from the conveyed fabric with the customcutting apparatus; (d) cutting off an end of the fabric unwound from thefirst a fabric roll and rewinding a fabric remnant onto the first fabricroll; (e) unwinding fabric from a second fabric roll at a secondunwinding location spaced from the first unwinding location after thefabric ban has been cut off from the first fabric roll and while thefirst roll remains at the first unwinding location; and (f) conveyingthe fabric unwound from the second fabric roll to the custom cuttingapparatus.